Santa Barbara, Syrah's Second Home?

This is the title of an article written by Charles E. Olken, and published in the Los Angeles Times on June 21, 2000. Those interested in Syrah and Petite Syrah wines may find this summary of his comments interesting:

It used to be thought that the Petite Syrah grown in California was related to the world-renowned Syrah grape, but it is not. Both grapes can be tannic and "brawny" (especially the Petite Syrah) but the Syrah has the edge in flavors such as blackberry, and spicy fruit, even when young.

Now, especially in Santa Barbara county, slowly but surely the Syrah is pushing its way in and pushing Petite Sirah out. In addition, recent tastings of Syrah from the southern coast yielded about 60% commendations, which is almost double the rate for the rest of California.

Excerpts from a few of the tasting notes in this article:

(WORTH THE MONEY) - 1998 Anapamu Cellars, Central Coast, $14. The rustic side of Syrah comes out in this wine. Its medium-volume blackberry fruit is matched by its tannins, and although grace and polish are not in its future, it does offer a big mouthful of wine at a reasonable price.

(EXCEPTIONAL - TOP 10-12%) - 1997 Babcock "Black Label Cuvee," Santa Barbara County, $35. Here is a wine of a different stripe. Its fairly broad aromas of blackberry, black pepper, oak and other woods are paralleled in flavors that come with the Syrah version of muscle yet those flavors never get heavy or coarse. It is fairly full in body and balance throughout and invites three to six years of cellaring.

(EXCEPTIONAL - TOP 10-12%) - 1998 Jaffurs Wine Cellar, Santa Barbara County, $22. This is the less expensive of two 1998 Jaffurs wines, but it is better for current drinking because it does not hide any of its generous blackberry fruit behind tannins and acidity. Rather, this vibrant wine simply bursts with ripe, sweet blackberryish scents and flavors accented with oak. While not overly tannic, it has the balance and depth to improve for several years.

(WORTH THE MONEY) - 1997 Meridian Vineyards, Paso Robles, $13. A different take on Syrah, and one that is not likely to be confused with Petite Sirah. This light, candied, raspberry-toned wine is trimmed with hints of leather and herbs. While it is somewhat supple at the front of the palate, it firms and brightens with a twist of acidic tartness at the finish.

(EXCEPTIONAL - TOP 10-12%) - 1997 Orfila "Val de la Mer, Limited Bottling," San Pasqual Valley, $24. This turned out to be the best wine tasted from San Diego County. It is a likable combination of juicy fruit, rich oak and hints of spice, and it has all the depth and expected tannins to hold it in good stead for up to half a decade.

(WORTH THE MONEY - TOP 25%) - 1998 Qupe, Central Coast, $13. This is a young, outgoing, pleasantly fruity wine. It is open, soft and supple in feel with just enough tannin for grip. It is ready now, and it is worth its relatively low price. Other Syrahs from Qupe are much more expensive even while being fuller bodied and deeper.